Riding in bad weather and on poor surfaces

By the end of this topic you can

• You can adjust speed and following distance for wet, icy and foggy conditions.
• You can spot slippery surfaces such as painted lines, drain covers, diesel and loose gravel early.
• You can choose a road position that avoids poor surfaces without putting yourself in danger.
• You can brake, steer and use the throttle smoothly when grip is low.
• You can ride safely in strong or gusty wind, including when passing large vehicles.

What you need to know and understand

• In the wet, stopping distances are at least double those on a dry road.
• On ice and snow, stopping distances can be up to ten times greater than on a dry road.
• Strong wind can push motorcyclists off course, especially on exposed roads, near bridges and at gaps in hedges.
• Large vehicles create turbulence that affects motorcyclists more than most other road users.
• Rain after a long dry spell can make the road surface extra slippery.
• Use dipped headlights when visibility is seriously reduced, generally when you cannot see more than 100 metres.
• A clean, unscratched visor matters far more in rain and at night.

Reading the surface ahead

Scan the road surface as well as the traffic. Many hazards that hardly affect a car are serious for a rider because you only have two small contact patches with the road. Plan your line early so you are not forced to brake or lean over a bad patch.

• Painted lines, arrows and zebra stripes: slippery when wet. Avoid braking or leaning on them.
• Manhole and drain covers: metal is very slippery when damp. Ride round them if safe, or cross them upright.
• Diesel spills: look for a rainbow sheen and a strong smell, often near fuel stations, roundabouts and bus stops.
• Gravel, mud and leaves: common on country lanes, near farm entrances and in autumn.
• Tar banding and repaired patches: can be greasy in heat and in rain.
• Potholes and ruts: may unsettle the bike or hide standing water.

Rain, ice and fog: what changes on a bike

In rain, double your following gap at the very least and brake earlier and more gently. Apply the brakes progressively, and do all heavy braking with the bike upright rather than mid-bend. Use smooth throttle, especially when accelerating out of junctions.

If ice or snow is forecast, the safest choice is usually not to ride. If you must, ride very gently, keep well back, and be extra careful passing gritting lorries, which throw out salt and grit. In fog, slow down so you can stop within the distance you can see, use dipped headlights, and keep your visor clear.

Handling strong and gusty wind

Expect sudden gusts on bridges, open moorland, motorway-style dual carriageways and when you ride past gaps in hedges or buildings. Grip the bars firmly but not stiffly and keep your knees in against the tank. Leave more room either side of you so a gust does not push you into traffic or the kerb.

When a lorry or coach overtakes you, or you pass one, expect a blast of turbulence. Keep well back before overtaking and only pass when you have plenty of space.

Common mistakes

• Braking hard on a painted line or drain cover. Spot them early and brake before you reach them.
• Keeping the dry-weather gap in the rain. At least double your following distance.
• Leaning hard into a bend on a greasy or gravel-covered surface. Slow down before the bend and keep inputs gentle.
• Riding with a misted or scratched visor. Clean it before every ride and replace it if damaged.
• Ignoring gusts near bridges and gaps in hedges. Anticipate them and leave space either side.

Test yourself: Riding in bad weather and on poor surfaces

Answer each question, then read the explanation. Questions come in a random order each time.